Oxfords Vs Derbies: The Ultimate Guide to Choosing and Styling

When speaking of Formal Dress Shoes, you have two big mammoth options – Oxfords and Derby shoes.

Some men prefer the completely formal oxfords for a refined appearance while others opt for the versatile derbies to add a touch of casual flair.

If you feel overwhelmed by these formal shoes and want to know in-depth about styling them, this blog is for you.

This blog post covers:

• What are Oxfords and Derbies?
• Oxfords vs Derbies: The Key Difference
• How to choose between
• Styling guide

Let’s get started without any delay.

What Are Oxfords?

Firstly, you all know that Oxfords are completely formal dress shoes. 

You can easily find the Oxfords with its closed lacing system, and the shoelace eyelet under the vamp (front portion of the shoe). 

Let’s travel back to its origin – the late 17th century, when it appeared as a more durable descendant of the period’s formal heeled shoes. 

The name is assumed to have originated from its popularity among Oxford University students in the nineteenth century.

Over the years, the oxfords turned down rugged outdoor shoes to sleek well-refined formal shoes, versatile options for business and formal occasions.

These are the few characterizations of sleek Oxford dress shoes that you should know of:

• Closed lacing system eyelet tabs are sewn under the vamp
• Low heels, typically have less than one-inch
• Exposed ankles
• Made from leather-like calfskin or suede, and also canvas
• Durable sole, often rubber or leather

However, oxfords in this sense, are not one. It has various style types. Here are the popular Oxford shoe style variations:

• Plain toe oxford: It’s the classic oxford shoe style, having no cap on the toe area. It works better for completely formal outfits like suits, tuxedos, and others.
• Cap toe oxford: Opposite to plain toe, having a leather stitched horizontally on the toe. Best companion for smart casual outfits. 
• Wingtip/Brogue Oxford: A mix of brogue and Oxford-style shoes. The toe cap with perforated patterns along the edges. Suitable for nights out.
• Saddle oxford: It typically has a distinctive lighter leather saddle across the lace area. Another thing about this style Oxford is it has two-tone colors like B&W.
• Wholecut oxford: Ah! This one is easy. Wholecut oxford style shoes are typically made from a single piece of leather. Best for both casual and formal occasions.

What Are Derbies?

Let’s go with the derbies, my favorite though. Derbies, also called Gibson or Quarterbred shoes. 

This shoe style originally originated in the 1800s, for outdoor activities like sporting and hunting just because of the rugged construction and sturdy sole.

The Earl of Derby has helped to the style among the English royalty, which is where the name “derby” originated.

These are the few characterizations of derby shoes that you should know of:

• Open lacing system with leather quarters sewn on top of the vamp
• Wider heel base for more traction
• Thick leather uppers and durable outsoles
• Rounded toe box

Even though derbies are made for outdoor activities, they turned out to be versatile as it is suitable for both casual and formal occasions and outfits. 

Whether it’s office space or perfect weekend wear, derbies play the game.

Here are the styles of derby shoes:

• Plain-toe Derby: The classic derby has a plain-toe cap. It can easily be dressed down or up. 
• Brogue Derby: It typically has a sturdy perforated leather detailing known as the broguring. 
• Longwing Derby: It features the wingtip toe cap extending along the sides, suited for dressers.
• Blucher Derby: Similar to the plain toe but with open lacing further towards the toe.

Oxfords vs Derbies: The Key Differences

Now that you know the features of these shoes, here are the key differences between these two.

Features	Oxfords	Derbies
Lacing System	Closed lacing system	Open lacing system
Piece Construction	Quarters sewn on top of the vamp	Quarters sewn to the vamp
Eyelets	Eyelets sewn on the top of the vamp	Eyelets sewn on the quarters
Formality Level	More Formal	Less Formal
Versatility	Less Versatile	More Versatile
Silhouette	Sleek, sculpted	Rounded toe box
Ankle Fit	Tighter, more secure	Looser, more relaxed
Material	Calf leather, patent leather	Suede, roughout leather

The Ideal difference between Oxford and derby shoes is the lacing system and construction.

Oxfords typically have a closed lacing system and quarters are sewn on top of the vamp. This gives the Oxford shoes a more sleek and well-refined formal look.

While derby shoes have an open lacing system where the quarters are sewn on the vamp. It gives the derbies a slightly laid-back, more casual, rounded profile.

Moreover, oxfords are generally considered the most formal dress shoes, and less versatile option. You can choose Oxford shoes for a completely professional outfit and business attire.

Speaking of derbies, the versatile option suits both formal and casual occasions. 

You can either pair derby shoes with a business casual outfit or casual outfits like chinos or jeans as well.

How to Choose Between Oxfords and Derbies

When choosing between these two dress shoes for your outfit, it comes down to your style preferences, the occasion you are going to, and what shoes complement your existing wardrobe the best.

Occasion (formal vs. casual)

The occasion you are going to matters most when choosing between these two shoes. 

As you already know Oxford shoes are completely crafted for formal occasions like professional office space, formal weddings, black tie events, red carpets, and more.

For derbies, it has an open lacing system on top of the shoe that gives a slightly casual vibe and versatile look. 

It is nicely paired with blazers, chinos, tweedy fabrics, and jeans as well.

Speaking of derby shoe’s versatility, they can be worn for both formal occasions like office spaces, business casual settings, casual outings, weekend wear, and more.

Personal style preferences

Besides everything, it all comes down to your style preferences. 

Some like oxfords because of the refined look it give and some like derby because of its durability and versatility.

The clean minimalist lines of the oxfords give a more dressier look, and a more traditionalist look. If that sounds good and flattens with your taste, oxfords can be your style companion.

The Derby, with its unique open lacing system, adds a touch of casual, durability, and versatility. If you like a blend of classic and modern style, derbies can be your go-to style dress shoes.

Wardrobe considerations

You probably came here to know which one to buy, either Derby or Oxford. 

If that sounds like you, you have to consider one more thing. Before making buying decisions, make sure to check out your existing wardrobe as well..

Do you have classic suits, sleek dress shirts, and ties that would be nicely paired with oxford shoes? Or does your wardrobe have more blazers, sweaters, and chinos that would compliment the laid-back derby style?

Make sure the shoe you are opting for matches with your existing wardrobe pieces to avoid mismatched pieces.

However, the derby’s versatility suits formal occasions as well.

But if you are a man who attends professional business meets in the sense you have to choose Oxfords. So, make sure it also resonates with your lifestyle as well.

Comfort and fit

Finally, you have to consider the comfort and getting the proper fit to choose.

Both of the shoes offer good comfort with the right last and material, one style shoe may suit particularly for your foot shape instead of the other one.

If you are on the way to buying one, consider opting and walking around before making your purchase decision.

Styling Oxfords

Speaking of styling, that matters the most when leaving a lasting good impression and finishing the outfit in style. Here is how you can style the Oxford shoes:

Formal occasions (suits, tuxedos)

For formal occasions like weddings, professional office spaces, black-tie events, and business meetings, oxfords are an elegant choice to choose.

When paired with a well-tailored suit or tuxedo, the Oxford shoes show a refined and well-put-together look. 

Opt for sleek black or deep burgundy Oxford crafted from quality leather material like calfskin or patent leather.

To complete the look, consider opting for accessories like a pocket square, a silk tie, and a sleek leather belt that complements the shoe color.

Remember: Attention to detail is the key to formal occasions. 

So, when opting for oxford, make sure it’s impeccably shined and well-polished and your suit or tuxedo is well-pressed.

Business attire

Pairs oxfords with well-tailored suits, dress pants, and a crisp white button-down shirt.

Opt for black or brown Oxford that are made of high-quality leather.

When styling the Oxford shoes for business attire, consider the formality level of the workplace. In a more traditional corporate office space, you can opt for sleek oxfords with minimal broguing or cap-toe detailing.

If your office space allows for a more modern vibe, you can experiment with oxfords with oxblood shades or tan.

Pair them with well-fitting dress pants or tailored trousers, a crisp dress shirt, a nice quality leather belt that complements the shoe colors, and socks for a put-together look.

Business casual looks

Apart from formal and business attires, oxfords also can be paired with business casual outfits as well. 

Pair them with nice dress pants in neutral colors like black, grey, charcoal, or beige. Opt for a sleek white dress shirt or any color that matches the bottoms.

For a more laid-back, relaxed appearance, you can roll up the shirt sleeves and leave the top button undone.

Additionally, you can add blazers or sweaters to complement your oxfords. When it comes to color options, you can choose black, or brown for a safe side.

But you can experiment with other colors like burgundy, or oxblood hues.

Styling Derbies

Here is how you can style the derby shoes:

Casual outfits (chinos, jeans)

Derbies can add a touch of charm to your casual outfits. Pair them with chinos or dark-washed jeans for a more relaxed yet refined appearance.

Opt for a relaxed casual shirt or a simple t-shirt for a laid-back vibe. Choose a pair of rich brown or burgundy hues to complement the earthy tones of your outfit. 

To enhance the outfit, add a classic watch, minimalist rings, and necklace, and that’s it.

When wearing a derby with casual outfits, you can experiment with various styles based on your style preferences.

Smart casual looks

Derbies can be your perfect companion for smart casual occasions like after-work dinners, date nights, informal office meetings, and social events.

Wear them with tailored trousers or chinos, and pair them with a blazer or crisp dress shirt for a put-together look.

Opt for a sleek black or oxblood derby pair to elevate your smart casual look. Complete the outfit with a patterned tie to add a touch of flair.

Additionally, for a minimalist appearance, you can opt for a nice polo/cotton polo shirt paired with nice tailored trousers and finish off the outfit with a derby.

Weekend wear

The Versatility of Derby shoes allows you to wear them for the weekend as well.

Opt for a casual sweater or chambray shirt and pair it with your favorite jeans for a stylish yet comfortable appearance. 

Choose a derby shoe made of suede leather for a rugged, that perfectly matches the weekend vibe and dressing.

The Bottom Line

I Hope now you know everything about the Oxford shoes and Derby shoes, the differences, styling, how to choose, and more. 

Remember, even though both are dress shoes, they give different styles looks, and suits for particular outfits and occasions.

Carefully picking up between these two classic formal shoes is necessary to style.

And, also you need to consider maintaining it properly to last longer.

That’s it from my side, let’s hear it from you.

Which one of the shoe styles is your favorite? Oxford or My Favorite Derby. If so, for which occasion do you wear them the most?

Let me know in the comments.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)